The K-beauty phenomenon began in the early 2010s with a focus on skin care, but a new "second wave" is now reshaping the global beauty market through a shift to inclusive, skin-first makeup hybrids. Sarah Chung Park, founder of Landing International, explains that this wave goes beyond skin care, expanding into color cosmetics, hair, body, and fragrance. Consumers, particularly on platforms like TikTok, are driving demand for diverse products suited for all skin tones. Historically, K-beauty struggled with inclusivity, largely due to its roots in a homogeneous Korean market. Brands typically offered only three to five foundation shades. However, globalization and the growing popularity of K-pop and K-dramas among Black and Hispanic audiences in the West are pushing Korean and Korean-American brands to evolve. US-based K-beauty companies like Cle Cosmetics and Peach & Lily have been at the forefront of change. Cle launched its CCC Cream in 2015 with five shades and gradually expanded to deeper tones, despite the challenges of cost and production. Founder Lauren Jin emphasizes prioritizing consumer feedback over traditional Korean beauty standards. Social media has also played a major role. Influencers like Miss Darcei brought attention to the lack of deeper shades, prompting brands like TIRTIR to expand from just three to over 20 foundation shades, even launching shades darker than Darcei’s own—making her their first Black brand ambassador. Despite progress, inclusivity remains a challenge, especially for smaller US brands with limited budgets and R&D capabilities. The now-discontinued Youthforia shade that sparked backlash serves as a cautionary tale. Ultimately, as K-beauty continues to expand globally, brands that prioritize inclusivity and responsiveness—like TIRTIR and Dear Dahlia—are best positioned to thrive. The second wave of K-beauty isn’t just about trend or technology; it’s about representation, listening to consumers, and evolving with the times(Vogue, 2024. November. 21). |